Thursday, 10 November 2011

From Etosha to Damaraland and Swakopmund

Traditional Himba woman
I was really hoping that in Damaraland we would get the chance to interact with some local tribesmen, as this area of the country is where many of the semi-nomadic Himba tribes are located. However the only interaction we got was when we stopped off along our drive on the roadside at some tourist souvenir shops. It is really incredible what the local people can create from things that you find on the ground! We were told that if we wanted to take photos we would have to pay as this is the main way the Himba people make their money. The Himba woman in the photograph is wearing traditional tribal clothes (which was brave considering how cold it was!). The people coat their hair and bodies in a local red clay as protection from the sun- must be very itchy putting that on your head!

We drove on, leaving civilisation (and tarmacked roads) behind. We stopped for lunch at the petrified forest, and got a guided tour of the site. The trees had been washed to the area from central Africa during some spectacular floods millions of years ago, and then buried in clay sediments. Over time the organic matter of the trees was replaced by minerals, so when the trunks were finally exposed, the trees were exactly as they were when they were buried only made of stone. 

Me and Emma at the stone carvings
That afternoon we had the option to go and see some stone carvings made by tribes thousands of years ago- I should have realised when only 5 of us wanted to go that it wasn’t exactly going to be exciting, but I went anyway. The cave drawings were ok, but I still don’t understand the point of them! It’s supposed to be something to do with spirituality and the afterlife, but at the end of the day a map would have been more useful!

Shipwreck along the Skeleton Coast





The following two days we spent in Swakopmund. The drive down the coast was very beautiful, and for some reason all the houses in the small towns along the way were all brightly coloured! The roads in this part of the country are actually made from salt, which is similar to tarmac when compacted (a nice change from dirt tracks!). Swakopmund offered a huge range of adventure activities, but I after a few hectic weeks I chose to rest and recuperate. 

Me and Kristen on horseback
We explored the town a little, but due to a power cut there weren’t many shops still open. It was a bit cold and miserable while we were there which is quite common there due to the cold ocean air hitting the warm landside air, so we didn’t even venture to the beach! I went on a genteel horse trek with one of the girls through a dry riverbed and some spectacular countryside. I actually was riding a very quaint mule called Spock, but it took me three weeks to work out it was a mule as the German girl guiding us called him a moolay! I did wonder why he looked a bit different to the other horses! All was going well until Spock got spooked and bolted off with me hanging on for dear life- I think I was more terrified than when a leopard was seen hanging around our camp!

Riding in the lunar landscape
We spent a couple of good nights out at the limited evening venues Swakopmund has to offer, even showing the locals our singing talent on karaoke night!

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