Wednesday, 27 June 2012

Uluru

Alice Springs isn’t the biggest or liveliest town I have ever visited, but it is where our adventure to Uluru (or Ayers Rock) began. Myself and two friends from work, Steff and Clement, flew to Alice Springs and arrived into a small airport not unlike the one we fly into for work. The next day we were picked up bright and early for our 3 day organised tour out to the rock. There were about 15 people on the tour from all over the place (but mainly Germany) and we embarked on the 5 hour (yes 5 HOUR!!!!) drive out from Alice to Uluru through the flat, dry, fairly uninspiring outback where rain might not fall for years on end.
Steff, Clement and myself at Uluru
We arrived at the national park in time for a quick spot of lunch before driving straight out to Uluru where our tour guide took us on a quick walk, telling us some of the Aboriginal stories surrounding the rock and showing us some traditional Aboriginal art. Aboriginal boys, when they are ready to become men, do something called walkabout. If they return to their tribe after years of surviving on their own in the most hostile environment you can imagine, the Australian outback, they are initiated into the tribe as a man. Part of their initiation in the area surrounding Uluru involved climbing up and over the rock.


Ayers Rock

There are many traditional sacred sites around the rock, including parts solely for the use of men or women (known as men’s and women’s sites). You are not allowed to film or photograph these parts of the rock, which is why you only ever see one side of Uluru in photographs. Traditional Aboriginals will not have their photograph taken as they believe this will trap part of their soul when they move onto the next life, and you cannot publish the name of a deceased tribe member. You are able to climb up Uluru (and it’s not an easy climb, trust me!) however the local Aboriginals discourage this for many reasons including health, safety and cultural reasons. I did the walk around Uluru which took several hours. And yes, it really is just a pretty big rock.
Kata Tjuta
That evening we drove out to a viewpoint over Uluru to eat dinner and watch the sunset over the rock, which was pretty special. That night we camped out under the stars around the campfire in big, thick, waterproof sleeping bags called swags. It was surprisingly warm and comfortable despite the cold outside. The next morning we were up at 5am to catch the sunrise over Uluru, then after breakfast we headed onto the neighbouring rock formation called Kata Tjuta (also known as the Olgas). Both Uluru and Kata Tjuta were formed at the same time- both started life as huge basins (bowls in the ground) with a river flowing through them from the nearby mountains. In the first basin all the big, heavy rocks dropped out of the river, which eventually became Kata Tjuta. The second basin contained the finer sands and silts, and this formed Uluru. Both are made from the same rock but both have very different appearances. We did another long hike through the beautiful Kata Tjuta formation.
Looking over the edge at King's Canyon
The next day we visited King’s Canyon, Australia’s answer to the Grand Canyon. Again we were up bright and early to avoid the blistering heat of the midday sun, and hiked through the canyon for hours. I was pretty worn out by the end of it! We rounded off the tour with a visit to a camel farm. Did you know Australia is the world’s biggest exporter of camels- us Europeans thought they would do well in the desert? They did.
The next day we did a day tour to the nearby West MacDonnell ranges, which are a series of hills around Alice Springs. We spent the day driving along the ranges, seeing features along the way. Not quite as spectacular as Uluru but splendid nonetheless. Alice Springs itself is not all that lively, considering the volumes of people that pass through on their way to Uluru. It is named after the wife of the explorer who founded the town- a mission that took several attempts and many months in order to connect Adelaide in the south to Darwin in the north.
 
Myself, Clement and Steff at Ormiston Gorge along the West MacDonnell Ranges

Tuesday, 19 June 2012

Perth


Ruth, myself and Anna on Christmas Eve
 The first day I arrived in Perth, it rained. And it has rained a lot since. But it has been sunny, and it is a great place to live. The house I live in is in a suburb called Carlisle- about 10 minutes away from the centre of town on the train, south of the Swan River. The house is enormous considering there are 3 of us living in it- myself, Anna and Ruth. I have the peasant’s quarters, so named because I had no job when we moved in and inherited most of my furniture from other people. Now I have a job and have splashed out on a bedside table. Last year we had a housewarming BBQ and we hosted Christmas dinner for us and a couple of friends and their family who were over here visiting.


Perth city from King's Park

Perth is a massive city, divided into hundreds of suburbs, each big enough to be called a town. On the train it can take over 30 minutes to get from the outskirts of the city into the city centre. It is an odd place, a little backwards in some ways, like a lot of Australia. For example, most shops in Perth are not open on a Sunday- and 24 hour supermarkets are non-existent. You’d be lucky to find one that stays open until 9pm. The metro train system is designed specifically to irritate the commuter; you will often see your connecting train leaving the station a mere 20 seconds after you arrived train 3 platforms over with no hope of making the train on time. And you know your next train will be leaving in 30 minutes. Sometimes though Perth will astound you with something (nothing comes to mind right now) and you think ‘why on earth hasn’t anyone else thought of that yet?!!’.
  
The centre of the city often has street performers and has some very good shopping. Just a short walk away is the Swan River, running all the way out to the west to the coast. Perth is only about 20 minutes’ drive from the nearest beach, and has some spectacular beaches all in an easy drive (I say drive because you invariably need a car to get to anywhere you actually want to go to). Just down the road is the coastal town of Fremantle, which is a great place to go and eat and shop and just walk around. We often go and watch the many ships coming in to port- it recently hosted an international sailing competition like Cowes week.
The Pinnacles
 Over Christmas we did a bit of travelling around to see some more of the area. There’s Caversham Wildlife Park where we got to see all sorts of native Australian wildlife, and I saw my first kangaroos (I ate them before I got to see them, and very tasty they are too). We went to a beautiful park called Yanchep where there are wild kangaroos and I saw koalas for the first time. A few hours’ drive to the north is the Pinnacles national park, which are thought to be ancient fossilised trees or tree roots (nobody is quite sure), and the coastal town of Cervantes.
Feeding the 'roos at Caversham Wildlife Park
My favourite place in all of Australia so far though has to be Margaret River, 3 hours to the south. This is the premier wine growing region of Western Australia, and is very English countryside in its appearance. It is a beautiful part of the world, with sandy beaches, turquoise seas and plenty of wine and good places to eat. There are also caves and lighthouses to see. I have been twice so far with various friends, and can’t wait for my next trip down there (my wine cellar is getting a bit low!).
Sunset at Margaret River

Wine tasting in Margaret River
On the beach on Christmas Day